Here you have a very good tutorial I found in Lilliput, is very practical and rehearse a few times you get the hang of it right away. We paint the faces may not be very practical in 15mm or 20mm figures but figures of 1:35 is required if we want to paint a good result and for this there is nothing like practice, practice, practice ... There are many methods but I prefer the oils as they take to dry and can be Fixed and time errors.
Introduction:
by Mark Bannerman
Translation: Julio Rabanal
Shep Paine presented once a fully painted and detailed model can be easily overshadowed by a mediocre figure. This could not be more true. The figures, more often, should be included with any kit to give depth and weight to key model on display. From my experience, contest winners are usually those modellers who either choose to include well-done figures with military vehicles, or prior to include a bad figure, do not include any. Paradoxically, it is more meticulous and more time in full detail and paint a vehicle, which paint a picture, and yet, at this time, the figures continue to be the worst nightmare of many modelers. Although painting figures, is not all my strength, I would like to share a few personal tips to help improve your figures. My research on the painting of figures is a compilation of dozens of articles in books, publications, video clips, and endless conversations with several painters of figures using all kinds of techniques. Therefore applied, compared and resolved tips and techniques, and decided which worked best for me. I can assure you that, in most cases the easiest method prevails. I also learned quickly that the fundamental rule when painting figures is: There is no established default rules - each person can develop their own personal style. I've always considered myself first and foremost a fan of armor, so the technique I like to share with you, has been adapted from that perspective. Share some small aspects and tricks to improve the faces of the figures. A tip: If you work on your first attempt, you will not rindáis!. He once told me one of the best figure painters in Canada that for every face painted and completed, there were four or five faces that were complete failures discarded - this was a comfort to me! PREPARATION
Before you begin, you must choose a figure of very detailed features, some figures Tamiya, Dragon and Italeri are very expensive and will serve our purpose well. For the most demanding fans, Warriors, Azimut, MK 1 / 35 are of high quality and their faces are full of detail. It is important to start with a very detailed figure from the beginning, since the result will only be good in terms of how good base with which it begins. A broken nose or a decentered eye sockets, will not be better once painted!. Take time and examine the figure carefully and be selective!.
Before you begin, figure should be washed thoroughly with soap and water, for metal use white vinegar and water. Remove all edges and fill the joints and defects with putty or Putty Milliput type. Then I suggest for plastic and resin figures, comprising spraying a preparatory layer of Tamiya Desert Yellow highly diluted, mixed with acrylic Mate White at a ratio of 1:6. Metal figures require a previous layer of primer (Testors, Tamiya, Floquil) followed by the Yellow / White Tamiya. This initial layer whitish, not only provides grip for subsequent painting, but it also lightens and accentuates the color overlay tremendously. It is very important to let this layer dry for at least 24 hours.
COMENZANDO A PINTAR LA CARA
Se deberían dedicar 15 minutos cada día para cada uno de los siguientes pasos, en una duración de dos semanas. Para mi trabajo, escogí una figura de Wolf en metal modificada con una cabeza en resina del mismo fabricante. Prefiero utilizar pinturas al óleo para las capas bases de la cara y las manos, porque son vivos, manejables y fácilmente alterables. He intentado realizar los colores de las carnes tanto con acrílicos como con esmaltes, con muy poco éxito en ambos casos debido al corto tiempo de secado, que no permite corregir errores. Y ¡no acabo de tener la paciencia necesaria para mezclar y fundir los esmaltes!. Por esta razón he escogido los oils as my standard way to paint figures. It will take four tubes of oil paint:
• Gold Ochre Burnt Sienna
•
• Raw Umber • Flake White
These tend to be expensive, however, I can assure that the product once completed it much better than its price and, essentially, these paintings will last a lifetime. You also need a box of toothpicks, solvent quality, two or three brushes and a magnifying glass. If the head of the figure comes separately, attach it to the handle of an old paintbrush to handle it better. The first step is to mix Raw Umber solvent solvent to get stained, no dissolved paint. Apply a soft wash across the face, neck and hands, or anywhere where you see the meat. The solvent should be introduced spotting all the cracks. If washing is too strong, they will light strokes with a dry brush over the face and thus remove the excess paint. Must be taken not to do this in excess, as washing could raise primer. Once this washed, dried and add more if necessary until a satisfactory result. Finally, there must be dark recesses in the eye sockets, the outline and the nostrils, ears, hairline, lips, and below the lower lip. The resulting overall tone of the skin, should be slightly darker than the original base. Once this point, allowed to dry for a day and a mentalizing to begin work on the eyes.
PAINTING EYES
eyes are always the center of attention in any diorama or vignette. Oddly enough, in comparison, two tiny dots on a huge bullet always lead the viewer's eyes immediately to the eyes of the figure! To alleviate any apprehension that may take this step, we must say that is not really all that bad. I always start by eyes, because if it is successful in its implementation, this will motivate to complete the figure with all the talent in that one is capable. To begin, I would suggest adding a drop of flesh-colored glaze on the white oil palette (my palette is a simple piece of plastic), to give the mixture a somewhat pinkish white. Before making the eyes, the basins should be dark as a result of the previous wash. He wets a toothpick or needle into the mixture and place a tiny dot in the inner and outer corners of each eye socket. Basically, it has placed the whites of the eyes, leaving the area in the middle with a dark tone of the initial wash product. If you are not completely straight, do not worry - we'll fix it later. Let stand for two days. The next mission is to paint the iris. This is what will enhance or destroy the figure.
FACE PAINT
Assuming you're satisfied with your eyes, be prepared for meat. On the palette, mixed Gold Ochre, Burnt Sienna and White Flake in a 2:1:4 ratio. If you are painting a subject of Africa, adding more Burnt Umber, and if Asia is added Gold Yellow Ochre. Mix until a flesh tone color that we like. Keep in mind that the oils, once dry, add a slightly darker tone than being presented fresh paint, so not to cut the target! With a good brush (not necessarily pointed), apply a thin layer of flesh color to the entire face, neck and hands, always avoiding dirtying the eye sockets and respecting the areas where it remains the darkest color first wash of Burnt Umber. Should be little extended and transparent enough so that the base color is visible through the wet paint (Fig. 2). The oils, in general, and white in particular are translucent in nature, and this is favorable to us. Let dry for two hours now under direct light.
now the figure is examined carefully and with the help of a stick is inserted three small dots the size of a point of pure white typing each of the following to shed light:
• Top of the cheekbones
• Highlights of the nose
• Above eyebrows
• Chin
nostrils • •
top of the ears
• Knuckle
Let the figure under direct sunlight for two hours. Take a dry, soft brush of those fan-shaped and shaping the soft touches down once or twice. The white dots then merged with the semi-dry meat color leaving a subtle increase in light. The effects of these lights may be appreciated while the paint is fresh. The oil paintings are bright frescoes, which hides all traces of higher light. As it dries, the results will start to come alive
Be sure to paint the hands and any other area of \u200b\u200bmeat at the same time! Sometimes it is difficult to repeat the same tone of meat. You can save the color of meat mixture in a glass jar or plastic, covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for future use.
PAINT OTHER DETAILS OF THE FACE
If you believe that the face needs a bit more color contrast, dilute a bit of Burnt Sienna and give a very slight wash the face of the figure, with particular attention to the forehead, cheeks, nose, and avoiding the eye sockets again. Let dry for one hour. This step is equivalent to applying a pink mixture of oil and carried out with a little patience, a similar result. This step is not essential and depends on each judge whether required or not. If you decide to make this wash, make sure the paint is thoroughly dry, should wait at least a week!.
When everything is dry, add a drop pure white on the size of a pinhead to light again the most prominent parts of the facial features (wrinkles of the eyes, nose, prominent part of the cheeks, nostrils and chin .) Leave it alone for an hour and quickly go down a dry brush across the face very gently. For the lower lip, mix a little crimson color on the meat of the lip. Once dry, place a small white reflection in the middle of it. The hair color is painted each choice. Raw Umber mixed with Black, usually gives a good game. When the hair has dried completely, apply a wash with black surface, that slip through the cracks Hair will give us the shadows, continuing a rising base of white light applied to quick brush across the tops of the hair. If the result does not convince us, we can cover the head with a hat or a helmet!. Now we have to remove the figure in the middle for a few days to let it dry completely.
At this point, if we have not gone as planned, do not despair, it is worthwhile to remove all the paint with a clean-oven and an old toothbrush and repeat once more all the steps. This is the reason why I have many heads in different stages of the painting process to not worry about wasting time in correct and if one goes bad, I can continue with other without despair.
REST IN SHORT ...
painted the gray uniform with a very clear product of mixed black and white. Using broad strokes apply tiny amounts of gray on the figure. The gray primer does act as a base layer, while the oil acts as a shadow. Once dry, rub by even a brush with a little white lights to apply more pronounced. The flag was painted with acrylics and used star U.S. transferable from one model airplane 1 / 72 scale. To finish, put the figure on a pedestal on which I made a basic ground and powdered whole figure with pastels - mostly white and pink. End
this project took me about 45 minutes to paint the face and in an hour and a half for the body and the flag, extending the process over two weeks. CONCLUSION
My technique is actually a jumble of techniques from many other modelers. I can assure you, that as time passes your figures are always better than the previous one and that your painting technique will change and develop. If you do not like as has been the figure, separate it and out of the way at least a week before the paint peeling. We tend to be very critical of ourselves in the moment and a little more lenient when some time has passed. ________________________________________
Article written by Mark Bannerman, September 1997. © 1997. Illustrated by Angela
Strehlen, September 1997. Original
English:
Track Link. Painting Faces: A Basic Guide to Improving 1 / 35 Scale & 54mm Figures
If you believe that the face needs a bit more color contrast, dilute a bit of Burnt Sienna and give a very slight wash the face of the figure, with particular attention to the forehead, cheeks, nose, and avoiding the eye sockets again. Let dry for one hour. This step is equivalent to applying a pink mixture of oil and carried out with a little patience, a similar result. This step is not essential and depends on each judge whether required or not. If you decide to make this wash, make sure the paint is thoroughly dry, should wait at least a week!.
When everything is dry, add a drop pure white on the size of a pinhead to light again the most prominent parts of the facial features (wrinkles of the eyes, nose, prominent part of the cheeks, nostrils and chin .) Leave it alone for an hour and quickly go down a dry brush across the face very gently. For the lower lip, mix a little crimson color on the meat of the lip. Once dry, place a small white reflection in the middle of it. The hair color is painted each choice. Raw Umber mixed with Black, usually gives a good game. When the hair has dried completely, apply a wash with black surface, that slip through the cracks Hair will give us the shadows, continuing a rising base of white light applied to quick brush across the tops of the hair. If the result does not convince us, we can cover the head with a hat or a helmet!. Now we have to remove the figure in the middle for a few days to let it dry completely.
At this point, if we have not gone as planned, do not despair, it is worthwhile to remove all the paint with a clean-oven and an old toothbrush and repeat once more all the steps. This is the reason why I have many heads in different stages of the painting process to not worry about wasting time in correct and if one goes bad, I can continue with other without despair.
REST IN SHORT ...
painted the gray uniform with a very clear product of mixed black and white. Using broad strokes apply tiny amounts of gray on the figure. The gray primer does act as a base layer, while the oil acts as a shadow. Once dry, rub by even a brush with a little white lights to apply more pronounced. The flag was painted with acrylics and used star U.S. transferable from one model airplane 1 / 72 scale. To finish, put the figure on a pedestal on which I made a basic ground and powdered whole figure with pastels - mostly white and pink. End
this project took me about 45 minutes to paint the face and in an hour and a half for the body and the flag, extending the process over two weeks. CONCLUSION
My technique is actually a jumble of techniques from many other modelers. I can assure you, that as time passes your figures are always better than the previous one and that your painting technique will change and develop. If you do not like as has been the figure, separate it and out of the way at least a week before the paint peeling. We tend to be very critical of ourselves in the moment and a little more lenient when some time has passed. ________________________________________
Article written by Mark Bannerman, September 1997. © 1997. Illustrated by Angela
Strehlen, September 1997. Original
English:
Track Link. Painting Faces: A Basic Guide to Improving 1 / 35 Scale & 54mm Figures
